Beauty in All Shapes
The Hope Diamond and it’s famous red fluorescence caused by boron impurities.Image @ Smithsonian Institution
Shape refers to external form, contours, or outline. As humans, we love shape and symmetry because they evoke certain feelings and emotions, hold meaning from our cultural conventions, and connect us to forms in nature. Shapes and symmetry are directly associated with beauty, which brings us to diamonds.
Diamonds are all about shapes – from the external outline of a diamond to the individual facets that are placed by a master cutter, diamonds are miniature geometric works of art – diamonds at their essence are combinations of shapes and angles.
Diamonds, like people, come in all shapes and sizes, each one beautiful in their own way. Diamond crystals formed in nature come in all types of morphologies – or forms – and each rough crystal is planned carefully and designed to bring out its full potential. Natural diamonds are rare, so diamond cutters work to balance beauty while not losing too much of the rough. Some types of rough diamonds are better suited to different diamond shapes than others, and just like people, diamonds are not “one shape fits all.” Polished diamonds come in all shape variations and facet arrangements, and so there is a diamond for every individual taste and preference. There is a diamond for everybody.
As individuals, we have our own preferences for the shapes and patterns we find appealing, whether it is curves, angles, or straight lines. Studies even suggest that each shape has its own meaning and influences our minds and reactions differently, which explains why diamond shoppers have an affinity for a particular shape over the other and might even be drawn to a shape that matches elements of their personality.
The most popular diamond shapes are round, princess, emerald, oval, and pear.
Round (Visually Stunning, Traditionally)
Humans are hardwired to like curves because in nature, shapes are curvilinear, so we tend to find circles more comforting. The round diamond symbolizes eternity since it has no beginning or end, and represents completion, wholeness, and harmony. The round brilliant cut, known as the “RBC” is the most popular diamond shape and cut because it has been carefully engineered over centuries to produce maximum brilliance, fire, and sparkle.
The Hope Diamond and it’s famous red fluorescence caused by boron impurities.Image @ Smithsonian Institution
Why Go Round?
Round brilliant-cut diamonds account for almost 75% of all diamonds sold. This is because everyone loves the round brilliant’s ability to maximize the proper return of light to the eye, enhancing the diamond’s brightness, the balance of sparkle sizes, and overall beauty.
The Hope Diamond and it’s famous red fluorescence caused by boron impurities.Image @ Smithsonian Institution
Style Guide
The round brilliant is for those with classic taste that love elegance, simplicity, and traditional all in one. American Vogue said it best: “This cut is for someone who is drawn to a classic and timeless style. A round brilliant is perfect for someone who wants a traditional look that will last through the ages…”
Princess (A Beautiful Alternative, Delicate and Lively)
Look around and you will see that squares and rectangles are the most used shape in everyday things. They represent strength, courage, security, and reliability.
The princess cut is usually square with pointed corners (sometimes rectangular) cut that has facets that are modified from the standard round brilliant and an intricate design. The princess cut, although a relative newcomer in terms of diamond cut (it became popular in the 1980s), is the second most popular shape and style of diamond purchased.
Princess Cut Diamond. Image @ GSI
Why Princess?
With more tiers of smaller facets, the princess cut has about 76 facets compared to the round brilliant’s 57. This means lots of small, dynamic sparkles that dance when the diamond is moved. The princess cut has smaller sparkles in larger amounts compared to other brilliant-cut shapes. A bonus is all those facets that can help to hide inclusions.
Image @ 1st Dibs
Style Guide
The princess cut suggests a flirty and lively personality not afraid of the spotlight. The sparkle and movement of the princess cut appeal to someone who may be spontaneous and fun. The princess cut balances spectacular glitter with the clean lines of the square or rectangular shape. Because of the straight sides, princess cuts can be set side-by-side. They can be set many different ways for interesting and unique jewelry designs.
From left to right: Fancy blue gray 1.23 carat princess cut diamond set in two-tone mounting, 18K rose gold and platinum. Image @ 1st Dibs. 24.32 total carat earrings with two princess cut diamonds at the bottom. Image @ 1st Dibs. Natural pink princess cut diamonds in cluster earrings. Image @ 1st Dibs. Tiffany & Co. princess cut diamond and platinum drop earrings, image @ 1st Dibs. Cultured pearl and princess cut diamond pendant necklace, image @ Bonhams.
Emerald (Contemporary and Geometric Elegance)
The emerald cut draws its name from the stone most often cut in this rectangular shape, the emerald. Gem cutters realized the emerald cut, initially used for emerald gemstones, maximized the brilliance of a diamond. It became popular in the 1920s when the Art Deco period when clean lines and symmetry were admired. Emerald cuts are step cut, with their long facets and layered corners that subtly resemble a hall of mirrors.
Why the Emerald?
The familiarity of squares and rectangles makes us feel safe and contained, and evoke feelings of trust, strength, and assurance. This popular style is best known for its beauty & precision because the long lines of the stone accentuate its sophistication. The emerald is to the princess like a Rolls Royce is to a Ferrari. The emerald cut is not designed to rival brilliant or other cuts, and instead of extreme light-play and sparkle, it has a subtle gleam with a clean, open look.
26.07cts emerald cut from Canada. One of the most difficult shapes to achieve while retaining ultimate brilliance, the emerald cut famously creates a mesmerizing “hall of mirrors” effect. Image @ De Beers.
Emerald-cut diamond weighing 11.15 carats, double prong-set between half-moon-shaped diamonds. From the Elizabeth A. Keck Collection, image @ Sotheby’s
Emerald-cut diamond weighing 25.81 carats, H color, VVS2, set in platinum. Image @ Christie’s.
Style Guide
Distinguished by beveled corners and step facets. The emerald cut is more transparent than other shapes because it does not have the interplay of all the kite-shaped facets. It offers play between light and dark planes, and flashes of white light, and works well with simplistic jewelry designs that show off its true elegance. Those that prefer the emerald may tend to be straightforward, strong, and quietly confident, and join the ranks of famous emerald cut owners such as Beyonce and Grace Kelly.
Beyoncé's stunning engagement ring features an exquisite emerald-cut diamond, designed by the renowned jeweler, Lorraine Schwartz. Mage @ www.naturaldiamonds.com
Grace Kelly’s iconic Emerald cut Cartier engagement ring weighing 10.48 carat. Image @ www.antiquejewellerycompany.com
Oval (Graceful Curves)
Ovals with their rounded edges are soft, feminine, and often represent the universe, or eternity. The oval brilliant has a similar fire and brilliance to round brilliant, and their elongated shape can have a lengthening effect if worn on the finger. Invented by famous diamond cutter Lazare Kaplan in 1957, it has grown in popularity since. Developed in the 1950s, oval-cut diamonds are a modern hybrid of other stunning shapes.
Why the Oval?
The oval has an 8% larger face-up area than a round cut, so this shape tends to look larger and accentuate longer fingers with the same fire and brilliance of the round brilliant cut.
The “Manami Star,” an 88.22-carat flawless oval diamond. Image @ Sotheby’s
From left to right: Fancy blue gray 1.23 carat princess cut diamond set in two-tone mounting, 18K rose gold and platinum. Image @ 1st Dibs. 24.32 total carat earrings with two princess cut diamonds at the bottom. Image @ 1st Dibs. Natural pink princess cut diamonds in cluster earrings. Image @ 1st Dibs. Tiffany & Co. princess cut diamond and platinum drop earrings, image @ 1st Dibs. Cultured pearl and princess cut diamond pendant necklace, image @ Bonhams.
Style Guide
The choice of the oval shape suggests creativity, and individuality, with a nod to the traditional. Ovals are for those that want to stand out. The great thing about ovals is they complement a wide variety of settings and can be set in any direction for an added element of originality. Here are our favorite oval-cut diamonds worn by celebrities.
Blake Lively and Ryan Reynolds; Blake wears a stunning rose gold oval cut engagement ring by Lorraine Schwartz. Image @ https://www.ritani.com/
Amber Rose and rapper Wiz Khalifa, Amber wears a stunning rose gold oval cut engagement ring by Lorraine Schwartz. Image @ https://www.ritani.com/
Katie Holmes wears a 5-carat oval cut diamond ring by Fred Leighton featuring six additional carats of diamonds in the halo and band. Image @ https://www.ritani.com/
Miranda Kerr and Orlando Bloom; Miranda wears a distinctive floral design ring including approximately 4 carats of round-cut diamonds creating an oval shape in a dazzling arrangement. Image @ https://www.ritani.com/
Jennifer Aniston and Justin; Jennifer wears a 10-carat antique rose cut with no pavilion sitting flat on the finger; an extreme rarity. Image @ https://www.ritani.com/
Kourtney Kardashian (Kim) and Travis Barker; Kim wears 10 to 12-carat oval-cut diamond engagement ring, featuring a hidden halo and a dainty pavé diamond band. Image @ https://www.ritani.com/
Pear (Stylish and Unexpected)
Natural shapes resemble things created by nature. They become a source of inspiration and specific meanings to each person. They can evoke feelings of unity with the natural environment and can symbolize originality and balance.
The pear shape has a rounded bottom, soft-sided curves, and narrows a point at the end. With one pointed end and one rounded end, the pear shape resembles a sparkling drop of water, and symbolizes “tears of joy”, but can also resemble other things in nature like a leaf, or the namesake pear.
The first pear-shaped diamonds trace back to 1458 and a famous Flemish diamond polisher who was meticulous about absolute symmetry in the placement of the facets on the stone.
Since then, this diamond shape has been known throughout history from the flawless 530.20-carat pear shape Cullinan I in the crown jewels to Elizabeth Taylor’s 69.42-carat pear shape Taylor-Burton diamond.
The “Manami Star,” an 88.22-carat flawless oval diamond. Image @ Sotheby’s
The most famous pear-shaped diamond is the Star of Africa, or Cullinan I that weights 530.2 carats set in The Sovereign’s Scepter with Cross set in the British Crown Jewels. Left: Queen Elisabeth II, by Cecil Beaton, 1953; right: The Sovereign’s Scepter. Image @ The Jewellery Editor.
Why the Pear?
The pear shape is one of the few diamond shapes that presents a unique asymmetrical design. Personalities that want to have something different gravitate toward the pear shape, and suit people that are adventurous and vibrant. Of the fancy shaped diamonds, it is one of the least common cuts for engagement rings, so it does appeal to those that are truly original. The pear brilliant-cut keeps the fire and brilliance of the round brilliant but adds some sparkle toward the point and offers a variety of sparkle sizes:
Style Guide
Like the oval, the pear shape gives the finger an elongated look. Traditionally the point of the pear goes toward the heart of the wearer but can be worn in a variety of orientations with many unique jewelry design opportunities. Right now, the trend is to set elongated shapes in the east-west orientation. The length-to-width ratio means the pear shape can come in many shape variations to suit any taste or design.
The “Manami Star,” an 88.22-carat flawless oval diamond. Image @ Sotheby’s
Weighing 7.65 carats is the fancy light purplish pink pear-shaped diamond at the center of this platinum and 18-karat rose gold ring. The pretty, VS2-clarity center stone is accented with tapered baguette-cut diamonds. Courtesy Christie’s
Each pear-shaped fancy deep yellow diamond, weighing 2.53 and 2.35 carats, suspended from a pear and brilliant-cut diamond surmount, clusters by Graff, fancy colored diamonds later added, pendent drops detachable, diamonds approximately 4.45 carats total. Courtesy Bonhams.
Ring by Jean Claude Taffin weighing 5.04 carats, completed by a swirled pavé-set mounting. Courtesy Sotheby’s.
Cushion (Vintage Feel with Modern Performance)
The modern cushion cut is a variation on the antique cushion cut, sharing a similar facet arrangement as the antique cut, but with a shallower depth and proportion. (left) Antique cushion cut diamond ring; (right) modern cushion cut diamond ring. Image @ https://www.ronaldabram.com/
The cushion cut does a lovely job bridging the gap between rounded and square shapes. With rounded corners and softly curved sides, the cushion can be rectangular or square, and is a soft, classic shape. The cushion cut has been around 200 years and was as popular in the 18th century as the round brilliant cut is today. Many historic diamonds are cushion shapes, hence, the cushion cut diamond is the shape of royalty. The most famous cushion cut is The Hope Diamond, a 45.52 diamond that is the rare diamond type IIb, colored blue by the trace element boron.
The Hope Diamond may be one of the most famous cushion cuts. It is 45.52 carats and is a fancy dark greyish blue color. It resides in the National Museum of Natural History in Washington, DC on permanent display. Image @ Smithsonian Institution.
The cushion cut originated from the “old mine” cut, which was a cut from the 1700’s named after the “old mines” in Brazil where the shape and cutting style had a squarish shape, high crown, small table, deep pavilion, and a large culet in order to preserve as much weight from the rough as possible. As diamond cutting advanced, the cushion cut came along for the ride.
Why the Cushion?
The cushion has the most versatility in appearance. The cushion cut can accommodate a variety of cutting styles to suit any preference because of its history and evolution. Depending on how the cushion is faceted, it can maintain its “antique” style cut with larger facets and broader flashes of light (sometimes called the “chunky cushion”), have a “crushed ice” appearance with smaller pin-fire bursts of sparkle, or maintain the classic styling with a balance of sparkle sizes and movements with the brilliant faceting arrangement.
Old Mine Cut Diamond: Image @ www.diamondbuzz.com
Cushion Cut Diamond: Image @ www.diamondbuzz.com
Antique Cushion Cut Diamond: Image @ www.ronaldabram.com
There really is a cushion for every diamond-lover!
Style Guide
The cushion shape is soft, classic, and romantic. The person that has a preference for the cushion shape probably has a vintage flair and appreciates tradition and timelessness. The cushion cut diamond is sought after due to its enduring sophistication. It pairs well with vintage-inspired settings and can contrast well with more modern designs.
Conclusion
Like people, diamonds come in all shapes and sizes. Shape is beautiful and our preference is determined by meaning, symbolism, taste, personality. There is a shape of diamond for each. With natural diamonds there is no one perfect shape – after all, real beauty comes from the variations in nature. Choose the best shape and facet arrangement for what means the most to you.
Far left: Enigma Necklace, with a 74.49 carat fancy vivid yellow cushion-cut diamond invisibly suspended from a a wide twisting ribbon of pave-set diamonds, set in platinum. Image @ Sotheby’s. Center left: An antique cushion cut diamond ring, 9 carats, fancy light pinkish orange. Image @ 1st Dibs. Center right: Pd Ring by Nicholas Lieou, with a fancy deep bluish-green cushion-cut diamond weighing 4.40 carats set in a cocoon of reverse-set diamond pave, set in platinum. Image @ Sotheby’s. Far right: A cushion-shaped fancy vivid blue diamond weighing 6.01 carats flanked on each side by an oval pink diamond weighing 0.46 and 0.44 carat respectively, mounted in platinum. Image @ Sotheby’s.